Ocean
Dreams | Ocean Fantasies
The months of May and June 2000 signaled
departure time of the SS Thorfinn on another ocean diving and adventure tour of
Oceania's most intriguing isles between Truk Lagoon and Yap. Each voyage features
some new and unvisited reefs and islets, along with proven favorites from four
previous seasons.
Cruise preparations were in full motion upon completion
of boiler work by mid May. Final fuel and food stores were aboard by May 25th
and guests for first departure arrived Saturday May 27. It was nice to welcome
several faces from previous tours. Marilyn and her friend Patrice were both past
visitors at different times, and it was our great pleasure to have them both again
aboard Thorfinn. They were joined by a couple from San Diego, and later the publisher
of Guam's 'Micronesian Reef Fishes' added his presence to this select cruise.
He was a good information source for identifying many strange species our divers
would find at remote locations. Diving Truk's Wrecks of Paradise began the following
morning for these early boarders. A further party of four joined us for transit
to Puluwat Atoll. A final late afternoon dive on the 'Sankisan Maru' at Truk's
southern island of Uman, and we were underway via Truk's South Pass to the first
visit of our Millennium tour at Puluwat Atoll in Truk State's Western Islands.
Puluwat was in sight by morning's first light, and at 08:30 hrs. the anchor
was down by the old Japanese lighthouse at the west tip of Alet Island. A long
brilliant reef extending 1 mile NW to an offshore coral head was our immediate
diving objective. A local boat arrived taking four passengers and numerous pieces
of cargo from Truk to shore. Bananas and papayas were presented in appreciation
for our services. Divers were back from several morning dives reporting sharks
and many species of fish, but with one minor anomaly, our new divemaster was missing
…? An intensive search found him midway over the reef on a trip to…? During an
afternoon dive, another launch ran some crew and gifts in to relatives ashore.
Anchor was hauled by 7:00 PM and we were away with the low throb of the
ship's big steam plant driving us at 11 knots toward Satawal, the easternmost
island of Yap State. The shape of this low island was in sight at first light,
and anchor was down in front of stately thatched canoe houses by 7:00 AM. Satawal
is famous for recent exploits by one of the last and best known traditional navigators,
Mau Piaalug, who successfully navigated Hawaii's replica of a Polynesian catamaran,
'Hoko'lea', from Hawaii to Tahiti without instruments using his instincts and
training. A more recent feat was the navigation from Hawaii to his native island
of Satawal with visits to several Micronesian capital isles en route. He is highly
touted for his dedication in teaching this dying art before it is totally lost
to a changing modern world. The ancient practices and taboos of this art are amongst
the most valuable tributes of these seafaring islanders. Mau, now in his mid 70's
was in process of sailing three Satawal canoes from Saipan to West Fayu Atoll,
and on to Satawal, which may prove to be his final major canoe voyage due to fading
health. Life on the open ocean in a 30ft. carved open canoe without shelter from
the elements, is beyond most people's perceptions of endurance and stamina.
Mau
had just arrived in ill health due to lack of certain medicines while en route
from Saipan, but he was clear minded and coherent when this writer visited his
hut, and conversed on various details of his recent trip to Washington DC. A visit
to the Smithsonian Institute with a presentation of his accounts was a major achievement
that may assist in procuring aid to prolong the ancient arts he retains. He was
hoping to attend a convocation ceremony at neighboring Pulap Atoll in Truk State
within a month's time, for a rare initiation of four students into the last remaining
of three ancient rites, called 'Pwo'. This method of navigation and taboos is
aptly described in Dr. Eric Metzgar's video, 'Spirits of the Voyage' which is
reasonably available at 'Thorfinn's onboard boatique.
Divers waited to
go down into clear waters surrounding Satawal immediately this captain had completed
'Talk of the Canoe' with local chiefs and island people at the main canoe house.
Throngs of pretty, bare breasted ladies greeted us with welcoming songs as our
launch came into the beach, and laughingly crowned us with local flowers of 'mwar
mwar' designs. Arrangements were concluded for diving, dancing, canoe rides, and
a visit to Satawal's satellite atoll of West Fayu, a short 40 miles distant. Excited
numbers of playful children in small paddling canoes and other floating objects,
were around the ship enjoying interfaces with many of our younger crewmembers.
Diving continued through first day, with various attractions in gin clear
waters on sheer drops from offshore shelving reefs. Some guests were ashore later
in afternoon for a stroll and to view available handicrafts. A second day's morning
dive was followed with launching of a big sailing canoe taking our guests on a
memorable offshore ride, displaying incredible seamanship involved in handling
these agile and seaworthy craft. Questions, answers and steady humor with the
canoe crew was the vogue during 1 1/2 hrs so spent.
A dive after lunch
was followed with everyone ashore for dancing by two groups of dancers, first
the men with a slow starting, but excitingly ended stick dance, and then a large
number of ladies performing chants and cadence style dancing dressed with flowers
and handmade lava lavas (short skirts). A wild tossing of candy and gum ended
this entertainment, with guests wading into surf and boarding our boats for return
to ship. The women ashore gathered in groups singing farewell songs, which changed
to excited shouts as the first canoes from Saipan were spotted on a darkening
horizon. The canoes came ashore by 9:00 PM with loud voices, horns, singing, and
festivities heard from shore as their welcoming party began.
A sailing
at 4:00 AM was timed to arrive at West Fayu Atoll just after daylight to afford
visibility on entering the small lagoon. We anchored off a long reef flat next
to the single island. The reefs of Fayu are dotted with wrecks of several fishing
vessels, and a large Korean auto transport ship that is now slowly crumbling after
a long 20 years of exposure and huge waves on the weather side of the reef breaking
over her bones. This pristine atoll is uninhabited except for occasional fishing
forays from Satawal that often leave several young men ashore to catch fish and
occasional turtles for transfer back to hungry mouths at home. This was the case
during our short visit, with three young men happy to greet us and receive our
proffered cigarettes and coffee.
Sharks, turtles, and various sea life
were observed during this visit, on sloping walls at the lee of the west side
reef. The good diving here is amply described with previous voyages last year.
Fresh Easterly winds and high seas kept our divers to the lee side instead of
venturing up to the weather side to check out great life reported there by the
Satawalese. A second day began with morning dives, and after lunch three of our
lady guests ventured in to the island for a look at island perspectives. An afternoon
dive was conducted on a coral head inside the pass with good results as reported
by Rob, our Mr. Fish (book).
The anchor was up by 5:00 PM to permit a daylight
departure over reef, and we were underway toward Lamotrek in sizeable seas. Anchors
were down by 10:00 PM in Lamotrek Atoll, with a wait for morning formalities.
At 7:30 Lamotrek radio came on and requested us to move in to their inner
anchorage adjacent to the beautiful beach and village. We were positioned by 8:30
and this captain was over for 'Talk of the Canoe' with island chiefs, bearing
small gifts and outlining our interests. This location as always was most hospitable,
and our divers were off to outer reef adventures by 10:00. We were shown a new
site inside one of the small passes on west shore that produced excitement in
sharks, and many other pelagic species. Afternoon rains squelched late PM dive
desires, and some of us went over later to meet many of the fine people, and share
some local tuba. It is difficult to describe the beauty of this site and the close
anchorage we employ for these visits. Some of our poster and brochure pictures
illustrate it. The tuba session produced a request from several citizens to accompany
us to Yap, and assurances if we would be so kind, they would fill us to capacity
with coconut crabs, bananas, and papayas at Olimarao Atoll our next intended stop.
A further request came from a senior chief asking if we could return an incorrect
shipment of lumber for the new building church windows, to Yap, and perhaps bring
the correct dimension lumber back with our return on the 2nd voyage. We consented,
and all went well for these favors.
The following day started with two
dives to outer walls, and then everyone was ashore for an afternoon of island
hospitality including some dancing by the new church's auxiliary ladies who overruled
the younger girls in this performance. A post dance tuba tasting session was provided
for some guests as illustrated by accompanying pix. All were aboard by 5 PM along
with 3 new pax and church lumber. Three long blasts on the ship's steam whistle
echoed our departure through the palms, and farewells were shouted and waved from
shore.
An easy lope out through a small pass with a few hours of slow running
and we were under the lee of Olimarao running slow until daylight to anchor on
an outer reef ledge. With anchor set by 7:30 AM, divers were off by 9:00 enjoying
the most pristine diving to date on this tour. Healthy reefs, and fast moving
currents obviously were part of the reason, and our divers were ecstatic with
each dive conducted through the day. Olimarao is a remote and beautiful uninhabited
location with three islands supporting large numbers of tropic birds, and many
items of interest deposited on their sandy beaches. A hard working Lamotrek threesome
returned from the main island with a big catch of giant coconut crabs to everyone's
delight. They were greeted with big smiles from certain crab pickers at the following
evening's supper table. A departure by mid evening saw our bows pointed toward
Ifalik Atoll, a perennial favorite.
Anchors were down at Ifalik by 7:00
AM, and after concluding another 'Talk of the Canoe' with familiar chiefs at the
main canoe house, divers were heading out by 9:30 to view Ifalik's underwater
treasures. It had been decided to dive all day, and people ashore would prepare
a following day's afternoon entertainment.
Good dives at various locations
on the reefs finished with a dive under the ship at our reef flat anchorage. Divers
ascended towards down pointed flood lights and reported enjoyable results with
a reasonable assortment of reef critters in clear waters. Diving continued early
next day, and at 10:00 AM boats were transporting guests and crew to the main
village to view the entertainment preparations. Dancing began on main trail with
an impressive array of Ifalik's warriors jumping and stamping the ground in a
display of "don't mess with me, man". We were duly impressed, and then a fine
selection of ladies from middle age down to about 4 years followed with their
chants and laments to the ocean gods and departed lovers. They closed with excited
shouts, and candies fell over everyone in final moments. More great pictures were
taken, with a return to ship for lunch and a post lunch departure to facilitate
a following midday arrival at Sorol Atoll. The big atoll of Woleai was passed
close off starboard about 4:00 PM as we steamed due west for Sorol.
Sorol
was not in our cards for this trip, as an engine bearing required an 'at sea'
change out by 4:00 AM, delaying our schedule for 16 hours while engine crew fitted
a replacement. Underway again by 8:00 PM, course was altered for a final destination
at Yap to facilitate departure schedules for those aboard. The following day's
steaming ended alongside Yap's commercial pier by 10:00 PM with port officials
ready to clear us, signaling finish to another extravaganza of outer island life
and sights.
__________________________
Our visit to Yap was far
too short to properly enjoy these fine people's great hospitality, but nevertheless
old friends came by, and the 1 1/2 days were actively spent with guest arrivals/departures,
visits to one or two watering holes, replenishing supplies, and refueling. By
4:00 PM Monday, final preparations for sea were complete, including loading correct
dimension lumber for the new church at Lamotrek. Various boxes and packages for
island folk's relatives were loaded, and we were underway with a final three long
blasts on the venerable steam whistle, signaling goodbye to those along the shores,
and that we were off again on another action packed eastbound tour.
__________________________
Yap was fading astern framed by a sinking sun behind its silhouette, as
the ship steamed smoothly in calm seas toward a first stop at Sorol Atoll. Sorol
was in view just before noon of following day, and engines were stopped close
to the SW reef, to permit our ready divers their first glimpse of a very vibrant
underwater extravagance. Every form of pelagic and reef life in these waters can
be found at Sorol. Unpopulated, and with a long almost seabird shape from above,
ocean currents flow by these slender reefs providing a plethora of food resources
for all species lurking close by. Turtles, sharks, rays, sharks, tuna, sharks,
and countless species of reef critters, add to the show.
The ship continued
standing off for balance of the afternoon, with two excellent dives conducted
at each end of this 7 mile long atoll. Boats were back up by 6:30 PM, and course
was set for distant Eauripik, the longest leg of this tour. Eauripik Atoll was
in sight by 12:00 noon, and we were hove to off the main SE island just after
2:00 PM. Mike Levin, our non, about to be a diver, went immediately to shore to
visit old friends and acquaintances, from his fond memories of living on Eauripik
for almost 6 months, many years back. Our divers were fast ready to dive, and
with a local pilot directing us, dove on a 'first time ever'. This was an old
German freighter that wrecked in 1912 and sank to a shelf about 160 ft down.
The wreck was in surprisingly intact condition lying on its side on the broad
shelf that had supported it from toppling off and sinking down to the huge depths
at each of these ocean points. Divers came up ecstatic about their 'find', and
soon wished to repeat the same wreck site. Better judgment prevailed, and they
enjoyed another great dive on a very vibrant reef. Mike was back aboard by 7:00
PM, while boats were lifted and we were underway for an easy lope to Ifalik.
Anchorage
was made on the reef flat outside the entrance of unnavigable Ifalik channel,
and this captain was away after 8:00 to participate in a 'canoe talk'. Friendly
faces greeted us back after the short time since last visit, and divers were in
the water by 9:30 exploring some favored haunts on west side reef. Mike L. was
again deeply engrossed ashore with more acquaintances and parents of various students
that he had sponsored through college overseas. An after supper night dive was
conducted under ship on the flat below. The next morning began with divers away
to new sites by 8:00. A second dive and after lunch, we were bundling everyone
into shore boats to view some fine Ifalik hospitality on island. Another great
display of dancing by two groups, one female, the other male from different villages
than previous trip, absorbed our interests for over 21/2 hrs.
It was back
to ship about 6:00, lifting boats and underway about 8:30 PM for another short
passage to Olimarao. Anchors were down at 7:30 AM, and divers were soon in water
for the most thrilling dives of their trip as related by excited returnees. Another
shore party of crew members went to a nearby island to attract fish and collect
a few corals for our onboard aquarium. A sunset barbecue was followed with many
crew off to Olimarao island to collect coconut crabs that were left behind from
last visit. The island crab hunters returned about 2:00 AM with a fine bounty
of big coconut pinchers that would later make a dinner table very plentiful, between
lobsters and other nourishing items. We were away at 6:00 AM for the brief trip
to Lamotrek, arriving at the beachfront anchorage by 10:00 AM. Lumber and goods
were immediately going over the side for continuing work on the nearly completed
church. Divers were off at same time to the Flower Gardens just outside the island
reef.
A later exchange of gifts from various chiefs was given to us during
their Sunday afternoon tuba session in consideration of favors we performed with
the shipments from Yap. The gifts were lavish amounts of lobster, papayas, and
coconuts that were to grace our tables by supper that evening. Guests were off
diving again by 8:00 AM and this dive was also a special event to a previously
unseen aircraft downed in the lagoon. Our local pilot guided us to the position
in the turquoise waters and our divers were impressed with its excellent condition.
The wings were covered by sand, but the fuselage still bore the clear round 'meatball'
markings of the Japanese military.
Lamotrek had been a significant Japanese
seaplane base, and has the remains of several other float planes on the shoreline
just back of fringing palms. For many years one of these had been prominent on
the beach, but a bad typhoon in the 1980's had pushed its broken frame into the
trees. Later in the morning, we were over for a small display of dancing by two
groups of young ladies, and at 1:00 PM we were preparing to depart with a big
salute on the whistle, and off to West Fayu for a pre darkness entrance over the
reef. We were anchored safely in Fayu by 5:30 PM and relaxed for an early diving
start in morning.
Early returns by the divers related of good life and
pelagics on the lee reef down by several towering shipwrecks atop the reef. Giant
sea turtles were frequently spotted, along with sharks, tuna and rays. West Fayu
was to serve as the beginning site for two dive training courses to our guests.
Michael Levin was at last lured into the undersea world by our convincing divemaster,
Mark, and Pascale, a French doctor went for a Rescue course. Several persons went
in to visit three young Satawal men positioned on the normally uninhabited island
for purposes of catching and drying reef fish for food back home. Cigarettes and
coffee were gratefully received, and a beach stroll followed. Anchor was up by
5:00PM and the ship's bows were next pointed towards Satawal with a fairly high
sea running from the NE sector. Anchorage was concluded at Satawal by 11:00 PM,
and most heads were nested on their pillows by midnight.
An early meeting
at the main canoe house was completed with the traditional 'Talk of the Canoe',
and then divers were off dipping down to Satawal's clear water attractions. After
several dives, a big canoe was launched from a key canoe house, and some of our
divers were off on an adventurous and exhilarating tour with a big host crew performing
all the rites of a victorious returning canoe from the challenges of the big sea.
As they passed astern of 'Thorfinn' loud hoots on sea shell horns were heard along
with the waving of paddles high overhead. The ride took them out into ocean swells
and demonstrated their amazing seaworthiness, along with the need for constant
bailing. A late afternoon shore visit by our guests and this Captain to visit
once more with Mau Piaalug was followed with a lifting of anchor by 6:00 PM, and
course set towards Puluwat.
An arrival back at Puluwat's lighthouse was
completed by 9:00 AM, and a half hour later divers were down to marvel at the
big reef below and out to the west.
Diving courses were continuing with
one guest Jackie, performing beautifully as the victim for the Rescue section,
when suddenly some gear drifted off and down the sloping walls towards a very
deep locker. Our instructor chased it in vain, to depths perhaps beyond normal
practices, and came back up slowly, later to complain of some slightly irregular
sensations in his tissues. Thus began the drama of 'treat the instructor', after
which it was noted that Puluwat seemed to be his nemesis of personal problems
on these tours. We were underway on a final leg towards Truk or Chuuk as it is
actually known in local idiom. The term Chuuk refers to 'place of high peaks',
and as the next day's approach revealed from a distance, it could be seen why
early canoe voyagers discovering these islands, named the mountains seeming to
rise from the sea, 'Chuuk'.
We were in through Truk's South Pass by 11:30
and proceeded directly across the big lagoon to Moen Island's commercial pier
to enter in with port authorities. Within an hour we moved off to a favored anchorage
in the Tonoas / Fefan Islands channel to continue a day of Truk Lagoon wreck diving
as completions to their main cruise itineraries. The wreck diving continued until
next afternoon's end to the Pan Micro tour, with some guests leaving to shore
for airport departures, while others continued with extensions to their cruise
itineraries.
It was interesting to see the change coming into people's
faces as realization of returning to their personal worlds set in.
Ocean
Dreams | Ocean Fantasies
