Ocean Dreams | Ocean
Fantasies
SYNOPSIS OF TRIP #1- West (Truk Lagoon to Yap)
The second set of cruises to magical outer isles of Truk and Yap States
was set into motion with a departure from Truk (Chuuk) on May 31st. On board were
18 adventure seeking divers ranging from a pair of Guam based Immigration officials
through a Colorado dive shop group of 9, a Seattle industrialist, his wife, daughter,
and a pair of friends, plus a writer with his wife/model on assignment for Skin
Diver magazine. A friendly Micronesian crew of 19, plus an ex pat Dive master,
completed a total onboard roster of 39 souls.
After a day of diving the
beautiful ghosts of Truk, 'Thorfinn's' bows were directed west towards the setting
sun after exiting Truk Lagoon's South Pass.
A gentle ocean crossing was
followed with an early morning arrival at Pulap Atoll. Two dive tenders were launched,
and while Captain was ashore concluding arrangements for afternoon entertainment,
most divers participated in their first look at outer reef terrain. After lunch,
all guests and much of the crew came ashore to take in their first shore side
entertainment of the voyage. It was soon evident that Pulap's proximity to Truk
Lagoon has assisted with more development than most other islands as evidenced
by a bright new concrete gymnasium that was the personal pride of all those partaking
in its erection.
Friendly citizens performed numerous dances through afternoon
hours followed with a tossing of candy and cigarettes by Capt Lance to appreciative
hands within reach. Steam was up on guest returns, and a departure over the west
reef by 8 PM was followed by an overnight course for Satawal, the first stop within
Yap State.
Satawal is an island differing from an atoll, as it does not
have a lagoon, and was formed by a geological fault or pushup instead of an eruption.
We arrived at this beautiful site with huge beachside canoe houses towering over
a steep sandy beach by mid afternoon. Within minutes of anchoring on an adjacent
reef shelf, we were surrounded by happy, splashing, youngsters, in tiny dugout
canoes and any other floating device. Divers were soon away to view spectacular
reef and wall vistas in gin clear waters. All forms of marine life exists below
Satawal's shores.
Satawal has gained recent fame among Pacific people as
one of the final islands still retaining ancient skills of open ocean navigation
in big breadfruit tree canoes.The canoes could be seen under many canoe houses,
but apparently five were away at distant West Fayu Atoll on a food and fishing
foray to support food needs of their mother island. Unfavorable winds had delayed
a return, and concern for their rice and other basics was being voiced by village
people.
A great night dive was conducted at 8:30 PM with hundreds of lobster
eyes peering out from reef grottos, along with a myriad of aquatic life.
A
second day at Satawal began with this Captain ashore at 7:00 AM carrying appropriate
gifts for island chiefs in a traditional 'Canoe House Talk' where arrangements
were concluded for activities through balance of our visit, and a later visit
to their satellite atoll of West Fayu. Diving at both ends of Satawal began at
8 AM and continued until 3:00 PM when most everyone came ashore to interface with
island folk and observe beachside traditional dancing in front of big canoe houses.
Various handicrafts were purchased, especially colorful lava lava sarongs woven
on hand looms. Some guests displayed uncanny abilities in locating and participating
in the consumption of a local coconut concoction termed as 'tuba' that creates
pleasant impressions on those imbibing its heady flavor.
A midnight departure
was timed to make a daylight arrival at our next stop, uninhabited West Fayu Atoll.
This beautiful and totally isolated location has been an obvious disaster for
passing mariners where the bones of their ships are strewn atop various parts
of the circling reefs. A somewhat eerie feeling is created in spite of the magnificent
scenery, when viewing towering remains of these once proud vessels, the largest
of which was a car carrier bound with Korean vehicles towards Australia.
Fascinating
dives were underway soon after a daylight anchorage within a beautiful tiny lagoon.
A single island with alluring palms and shining beaches lured a few visitors to
explore its shores and view a tiny chapel and adjacent palapa huts for visiting
fishermen and turtle hunters. Divers were quickly reporting spectacular vistas
of giant turtles, sharks, tuna, and many other reef fauna.
An afternoon
vote favored moving on to our next destination at Lamotrek Atoll, a noted location
of ocean navigators, and outer island traditions. Anchors were up before dark
to facilitate an early morning arrival at Lamotrek. A pre dawn arrival led to
a daylight anchorage almost on the beach with a spectacular vista of a village
nestled between surrounding palms and people bathing in the sea. This location
is a proven favorite for all visitors.
After a short 'Canoe Talk', divers
were away to pristine reefs and drops outside and adjacent to the main island
of Lamotrek. Some divers on one trip will remember an unusual return that won't
be elaborated in this account. Several guest groups went ashore to visit, and
tuba became the vogue after 5:00 PM.
Next day's dive boats were away at
8:00 AM, and just after lunch two sailing canoes were launched and readied to
transport some appreciative guests on a brief turn in the lagoon to display their
unusual sailing practices. Later, cultural dance displays by several girl's groups
proved popular for photographers. Later with everyone waving from shore, the ship's
anchor was lifted and three long steam whistle blasts echoed our regretful departure.
An arrival at the most traditional of all atolls, Ifalik, was made by 9:30
AM. Arrangements were concluded by radio permitting immediate dive departures
by 3 boats to explore some great walls and sea life. Some guests opted to come
ashore during our Captain's 'Canoe Talk' with local chiefs, to explore a clean
village and perhaps purchase some items of interest. After a full day's diving,
several divers went down after supper to explore a surprisingly brilliant reef
floor just below our anchored ship.
Tuesday began with two dive launches
away at 7:00AM to explore more reefs, and at 8:00, the Captain was ashore to complete
arrangements for the day's activities with village chiefs. By 1:30 PM several
boatloads of people were heading in to witness afternoon dance groups perform
under the shade of village palms and breadfruit trees. A great performance by
four groups of female and male dancers was followed with a roam around the village
and return to ship by 7:00 PM. Anchors were up by 7:30, and the ship was pointed
towards our next intended stop of Eauripik. At 10:00 PM engines were stopped at
sea to effect a main engine bearing replacement. A hard working crew had the ship
underway by 7:00 AM. After discussions of available options, along with some guest
departure schedules, course was altered directly for Sorol Atoll as little daylight
would remain by arrival at Eauripik , a location without anchorage.
A 320
mile run was concluded on arrival at Sorol Atoll by lunch time the following day.
The ship swung under a SE lee of this long uninhabited atoll lacking any available
anchorage. Divers were soon away in three launches to explore exciting reef and
aquatic life at the weather end. Upon return of boats, a slow run to westward
was followed by another dive at the long curving tongue of reef forming the west
end of this narrow atoll. The beginnings of a slow drift dive came to an exciting
conclusion as divers reached a turbulent current swept reef tip. A brief scurry
by our launches retrieved everyone safely, and created some exciting tales later
over supper while underway for our final terminus at Yap.
The high profile
of Yap was visible by 9:00 AM, and after a pause for clearance to enter, we were
alongside the commercial pier by 12 noon. Telegraphs went to Finished With Engines,
and after Customs clearance, guests and many crew were off to seek their niche
at O'Keefe's island of stone coins. Many of our personalities were later found
at the quaint bar known as O'Keefe's Kanteen where food and grog were increasing
the tempo.
People dribbled back through the evening and were slowly facing
the reality of a completed adventure, with the need to begin packing now upon
them.
Our final day of the Westbound Voyage began with a flurry of final
packing and farewells as some people were off by 9:30 to board Yap's Sunday noon
Continental Micronesia's flight to Guam. Others were readying for transfer to
the Manta Ray Bay Hotel to begin diving with mantas under the auspices of Yap
Divers.
Ships' stewards were off to the large Yap Co-Op store to replenish
their larders and restock for departure the following day. An air conditioning
crew began work on some troubled systems aboard that had been performing below
par.
SYNOPSIS OF TRIP #2 - East (Yap to Truk Lagoon)
Departure
day of Monday June 14th was busy with crew rushing to complete all purchases of
food and stores along with assisting the reefer crew in repairs to two of the
ship's a/c systems. Our 10 guests for this voyage were all aboard and was as equally
diverse as our first leg with a noted anthropologist, a well known photographer
/ freelance writer from Guam and his model through to couples and individuals
covering many aspects of life. By mid afternoon all were itching to set off. We
raced to meet our scheduled sailing that was slightly delayed waiting for completion
of the a/c work. Lines were cast off by 6:00 PM and three long steam whistle blasts
signaled farewells to all at Yap and the start of our eastbound adventures.
A
beautiful sunset with Yap receding in the background provided the setting for
guest orientations about ship and journey, on the aft spa deck. Anticipations
were obviously high from all present.
Our first landfall was in view by
9:30 AM, and one hour later we were pulling up close under Sorol Atoll, on a glassy
sea. Two boats were launched, and most guests except the non diving historian
/ writer / filmmaker, Eric Metzgar were off to explore the virgin wonders of this
beautiful site. Eric went ashore to explore the reef flat during low tide to check
out some anomalies visible a short distance away on a closeby sandy island. Reports
were outstanding with sightings of almost all pelagics known in these waters.
Several more dives were conducted during the afternoon, with the ship standing
close by, due to lack of anchorage and steep drop offs surrounding this pristine
atoll.
With the first shadows of night creeping in, boats were reloaded,
and course set to our next stop at Eauripik Atoll. A fine crossing over a large
expanse of ocean brought Eauripik into view by 3:00 PM, and we pulled up off the
main village at 4:00 PM. Our launches picked up a host party of officials in the
shallows of the reef flat, while the ship stood off, unable to anchor for similar
reasons at Sorol. Permission was immediately granted divers to get wet before
the oncoming darkness. The officials were treated to various packages and cigarettes
while directing our divers toward the favored dive spots via radios to the launches.
This dive was extremely satisfying, and everyone echoed how much they would enjoy
being able to do more, but with darkness closing in it was not practical to stand
off all night. We were off by 8:00 PM after dropping the officials ashore.
Ifalik
was close at hand by 11:00 AM, and we had hook down at the outer anchorage by
noon. Permission to dive had been received, and within half an hour, two launches
were away towards the reefs with eager divers to range along the best sites.
At
mid afternoon, our brave captain was heading in to meet with the chief's council.
Eric Metzgar was in accompaniment with a plan to stay over and visit with some
friends and family he knew from a long term at Lamotrek and neighboring islands
After the customary 'canoe talk', plans were completed for the balance
of our two day stop. On return to ship, maintenance crews were busy replacing
a big fan in one of the guest air conditioning systems. It was completed two days
later at Lamotrek, much to guest satisfaction after two nights of 'cotting out'
in a cool main lounge. Part of the adventure?? …. perhaps, but most guests were
satisfied at trip end with the compensation offered for their temporary inconvenience.
Ifalik's good people put on a great show, and a very appreciative audience
was absorbed in filming and interfacing with these hospitable citizens. The diving
had been exceptional, and a happy and satisfied guest complement was back aboard
for sailing time at 9:30 PM.
A comfortable overnight crossing to Lamotrek
Atoll concluded with anchorage at this beautiful lagoon by 10 AM in close proximity
to the main village beach. Boats were launched and divers away to the local 'flower
gardens'. Our anthropologist, Eric Metzgar was anxious to renew former friendships
with many of this island's prominent citizens he had spent long periods with in
former years. Garbed in an island 'thu', he was soon absorbed within the village,
'going local' for balance of our visit. Some guests were strolling through the
village by sundown, and others had discovered the 'tuba' gatherings where men
would gather with their recent 'cut's' production.This was liberally and generously
served to any guests so inclined.
Night dives were declined, but early
Sunday morning dive boats were away by 7:30 to see as much of the fine sites outside
the main island as time would permit. After several dives, many persons were over
to village shores partaking in more island hospitality. It was evident the men's
council gathered each Sunday in one of the larger canoe houses for discussions
on all island events and needs, especially regarding current construction of an
all new church that occupied nearly everyone's time in its erection. Following
the serious items, the mode was relaxing with their favorite tuba and cigarettes.
Eric was found so involved as we drew near. A happy conclusion to the afternoon
continued, and Eric brought a senior chief Magowe on board for supper with some
of his sons in accompaniment. While steam was being raised, a movie was engaging
the chief's family and friends at the main lounge.
By 11:00 PM, everyone
was ashore, anchors up, and we began steaming slowly towards the main Pass. An
easy crossing to West Fayu Atoll was followed with an anchorage inside this pristine
location by 7:30 AM.
This tiny uninhabited atoll has proven fatal to many
craft in previous times as evidenced by their skeletal frames draped over the
outer reefs. Divers were soon away to great reef locations and pelagic life of
this remote food basket for Satawal. An active day of diving wound down with a
beach barbecue party, that enthralled everyone with the rays of a setting sun
reflecting over a calm lagoon and white sands of their magnificent retreat. Civilization
seems a long way removed at times such as these.
The following morning
of Tuesday, June 22nd was a carbon copy of the previous day with divers finding
a continuous plethora of ever more reef life and pelagic goodies along a totally
unexplored scuba paradise. Some folks were ashore beachcombing in early afternoon,
and Eric found himself temporarily abandoned to the company of coconut crabs and
boobies for several hours, until a return of divers and a boat finally picked
him off the island. Anchors were up by 5:30PM to enable a daylight exit over a
tricky reef pass. Satawal was in sight by 10:00PM in the bright moonlight, and
anchorage was obtained on the reef shelf by midnight.
By 8:00 AM a radio
clearance to commence diving permitted everyone a quick start for the day. A shoreside
'canoe talk' was conducted by 11:00 AM with all chiefs present at the largest
canoe house, and after formal exchanges arrangements were concluded for our visit
over the next two days. Diving continued through balance of the day, after which
boats were hoisted aboard for the night Continuous streams of happy youngsters
in canoes surrounded the ship for most of the evening, and it was soon clear that
much of their interest was directed towards our pretty Trukese hostesses, especially
Vera.
Diving began early Thursday by 7:00 AM to get in as many dives as
possible prior to afternoon festivities ashore. At 1:00 PM, two big sailing canoes
were standing by to take entire ship's complement of guests for an interesting
1 1/2 hr. demonstration of ancient sailing techniques carefully preserved by a
people who are one with the sea. This was followed by most persons coming ashore
to stroll around and meet islanders preparing flowers and palm fronds for 'local
motions' by male and female dancers in front of the canoe houses.
Farewells
were made by throwing candies and cigarettes to everyone in view, and the girls
joined in a tribute song to the 'Thorfinn' and its people. Anchors were lifted,
and with three long blasts on the steam whistle we were underway once again. Hundreds
of children were racing down the beach waving a fond farewell.
Puluwat
Atoll was in view by 12:00, and we were standing off to get permission to dive
their magnificent lighthouse reef. Finally, we sent our launch in to make contact
and report back by handheld radio. Anchors were dropped at the lighthouse, and
divers were off to explore a mile long reef extending Northwestwards from this
old Japanese wartime structure. After several great dives, anchors were lifted,
and the final leg of this voyage was underway by 6:30 PM.
The high peaks
of 'Chuuk' ( or Truk as it came to be known by those persons unable to pronounce
the correct local term ) were in clear view by 10:00 AM. The true name of Chuuk
means 'place of high peaks' in local idiom, and it is easy to determine why -
on seeing just high mountains appearing out of the sea as they must have been
viewed milleniums earlier from the first canoes coming upon them. South Pass was
entered at 1:00 PM and within one hour, we were dropping divers into our launch
to experience the famous wreck of the 'Fujikawa Maru'. The ship proceeded to an
anchorage on the west side of the former Continental hotel, now known as the Blue
Lagoon Resort. Diving continued through balance of afternoon, and later a big
barbecue party with local 'on board' motions put a 'wrap' on the main portion
of another exhilarating set of Pan Micronesian Cruises.
A short steam to
the commercial pier the next morning of Sunday June 27th, was necessary to clear
Customs/Immigration before guest departures, and continuing on with those staying
aboard for the start of a following week of Truk's finest wreck diving.
AND
it was back to business as usual in Truk, until next year's Fantasies recur once
more.
This Captain and all of our fine staff/crew wish to sincerely thank
those good persons travelling with us for these two historic cruises. We trust
the experiences you have witnessed will perhaps have opened your eyes and mind
to the very satisfying life led by an intelligent and handsome people in such
a remote environment so far removed from our ever encroaching 'civilization'.
Ocean Dreams | Ocean
Fantasies
